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from Nouadhibou, we take the asphalt road to the south. After about 200 km we drive from the main road heading west into the open terrain. We follow some traces of sand and rubble. Andis agent and Corinna's GPS, we can orient ourselves in the terrain very well. Time and again we pass soft sand stretches between the sand dunes, and finally, Finally, the Land Rover is in animal welfare! You can hear the engine

quasi cheer ... with no problem mastering the all-wheel drive on the sand. At deeper sites help from the off-road gear. We move about 40 km across the desert before a half-way runway used encounter that leads us directly into the National Park. With the two SUVs we can enjoy the beautiful landscape of soft rolling dunes under clear blue skies. Finally, the trail leads closer to the Atlantic, which also applies here directly on the desert landscape. We set up camp at the Cape on Taragit - 100 yards the beach. Evening by the fire, we observe gerbils, spiders and a number of different rolling Wüst cornered animal. The next morning found all around our storage defects of jackal and Desert Fox (all easily identifiable through the cosmos leader "Sahara", a really useful gift to my mother, in addition to the annual pajamas!). The next day we drive through the park towards the south, the dunes are getting higher and eventually surrender, the somewhat weaker engine of the VW bus. We drive back towards the asphalt road and after a night on under the desert sky (this time we find a whole camel skeleton), we reach Nouakchott, the capital of Mauritania.

around Nouakchott is a five kilometer-wide belt of rubbish and car wrecks - not unusual for African cities. The city itself turns out to be quite pleasant - lots of small restaurants and cafes along with the villas of the messages line the boulevards of the city. Mauritania's population is generally very friendly but reserved, exceptions are only a few police checkpoints, the "Gifts" claim. We plan to stay here two days before the trip to the Senegal river to go further.

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Mauritania reached! logo

We have now crossed the border into the "real" Africa. After almost 2 hours, the border formalities done and we drove to Nouadhibu, the second-largest "city" in Mauritania. But it is essentially a collection of shacks and huts, the hawk, especially cell phones and all sorts of stuff. The camp is all right, including one-hour Morgenruf from the adjacent mosque by 6 clock. While Morocco is now nearly happened to sound european, Mauritania is a real change. In Nouadhibou, there are maybe two restaurants on Western standards, after all, an excellent Chinese. Alcohol is not to get practical. At the border, some passengers were frisked meticulously accurate, if anywhere would be to find a bottle. In the booth by customs could also be a collection of confiscated alcoholic drinks to visitors. What happens, however, with the substance after work was not to figure out from the Zoellner ... We are therefore already on the famous "Zebrabar" in Sengeal where is supposed to flow the typical "beer Gazelle" and dogs ...

The next day it goes but first on to the unique bird national park "Parque de Argin" a little south and then via Nouakchott beach passage towards the capital. The trip to the beach line is only in favorable Tidal possible and therefore we are waiting still in Nouadhibou on the ebb; read we sell our time, fly count and an interesting discussion with a Fischeiereinkaeufer from France, one of coveted specific fish eggs buys, which are then in France for a fortune in the supermarket appetizer to go over the counter.

Here are a few pictures with impressions from the Wuestenfahrt the last days. To see the all-wheel-VW bus of our new friends Andy, Cori and daughter Nina, with whom we are part of the way back and put the action "sand in motor home" a few days.

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5000 km from home

Yesterday we are the third day through the desert gefahren und haben die 5000 km Marke seit Kreuzlingen ueberschritten. Am Abend vorher hatten wir noch auf dem kleinen Campingplatz Roi du Beduin das Vergnuegen, unsere Sandbleche einzuweihen und ein festgefahrenes Wohnmobil wieder flott zu machen. Das freundliche franzoesische Ehepaar packte darauf die Whiskyvorraete aus und es gab eine improvisierte Stehparty im Sand mit deutlichen Kopfschmerzfolgen am naechsten Morgen.

Inzwischen ist also fast die ganze Westsahara durchquert, heute Abend steht der Grenzuebertritt nach Mauretanien an. Die Straende Dakhlas , ganz im Sueden Marokkos, sind uebrigens ein absoluter Traum und von Dutzenden Surfern bevoelkert. Ueberhaupt scheint die Regierung inzwischen viel Geld in dieser Region zu investieren und die Wuestenstaedte machen allesamt einen guten Eindruck. Nur die Campingplaetze bieten eine echte Herausforderung fuer Meister Proper.

Auch der Sprit ist steuerfrei und wir bezahlen umgerechnet pro Liter Diesel 40 cent... Mit einmal Tanken fuer 40 Euro sollten wir also fast bis an den Senegalfluss vorstossen koennen!
Fotos folgen sobald wir die technischen Moeglichkeiten finden.

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Tan Tan and the pensioners in the camper

Gestern stand noch eine Ubernachtung im ehemaligen Fort der Fremdenlegion Bou Jerif auf dem Programm. Das erste mal das Zelt in der Wueste aufgeschlagen. Perfekter Sternenhimmel... Dieses von Franzosen geführte Wüstencampment ist idyllisch Located some 40 km west of Guelmin reached via paved road and 10 km of slopes. One night's worth anyway. There is also a small hotel next door and a very attractive restaurant.

Today we are but about 200 km south, back to the coast - at Tan Tan. Imagine just blue sky, 100 km from the beach and meter-high waves. In addition, retirees from around Gelsenkirchen and Holland in their campers who sit all day on a folding chair and talk about everything and nothing. Almost like home on Lake campsite ...

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On the Road to Agadir or by the art a truck

The road from Marrakech Agadir is about 260 km winds over the Atlas Mountains. It is sometimes rather narrow and often quite confusing. We shall have much leisure at speeds between 30 (uphill) and 60 philosophize (downhill) to the loading skills of African truck drivers who often swing their antique-looking little fellow overhauled through the mountains. The coronation is a truck that transported approximately 4 m height on the roof rack still about 10 sheep and goats and two shepherds. No idea how come the critters on the roof ...

Then evening arrival in Agadir. The city makes a better impression than her reputation as a stronghold to be fixed. It is low season and the miles of Beaches are almost empty, the other shooters seem to have to do .... Only a few surfers frolic in the sea and surf for minutes to come rolling Atlantic waves. The temperature is a comfortable 20 to 25 degrees during the day and the nights are much milder than in northern Morocco ... What more could you want?

The first image shows a Moroccan-laden truck (note the painted words "Good Luck" on the mud flaps ... definitely required). The picture below shows Steffen in the typical pose of the chicken spit chewing in the souk.

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Domaine de Sahari Reserve

a "sub-wine" we have done yesterday to heart, "Domaine de Sahari" - not a bad drop. However, is not the wine from the Sahara, but from the region of Meknes, where the French at the time the wine introduced. The aroma is fruity, with a relatively strong note of vanilla and a little rough, sandy finish ...

addition to enjoying local delicacies (see picture from the central square in the medina Djenna el Fna) is still a day trip in the High Atlas (see another picture to report). About 1 hour south of Marrakech there is a steep in the Atlas Mountains, some 3000 and 4000 also provide the necessary snow. So if it's in Switzerland has still not been enough snow - the ski resort of Oukaimeden offered November-April snow conditions and slopes for all levels. (Occasionally, however, should strike the somewhat old-fashioned lifts ....) We are only run up to 1500 m to admire the Ourika Valley.

the end of the week we will again go towards the coast with target Agadir, and then we gradually move towards Western Sahara.

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Chuchikaeschtli in North Africa

The border between the English enclave of Ceuta on the Africa (where the ferry from Algeciras port) and Morocco is a swarm of thousands of people, taxis, trucks, mules and various other creatures. We are approached by a guide who looks with his robe and hood really adventurous, a fact underlined by his wild beard. But can the man but the Swiss word "Chuchikäschtli" (High German: kitchen cabinet) to express properly, as soon as he caught sight of our Swiss number plate. He yells so that one word about 10 times in our ears, which he actually seems trustworthy, so we trust him and he to us within 15 minutes through passport control, car registration and customs towed (for a small fee, of course). Then it goes quickly towards the south: Tetouan, Rabat, Casablanca. We cross the foothills of the Rif Mountains and look out for cannabis plants on the left and right of the road. Allegedly, the Rif Mountains still home to one of the world's largest hashish producing areas. Along the way but only strawberries, oranges and chicken are offered for sale. The journey is pretty spectacular, because the highways are perfectly developed. Remarkably, only a huge supermarket in Rabat, which can compete with any European mega shopping mall - including Pizzahut, McDonalds and Co. With the arrival in Marrakech, we have achieved a first important milestone. On the way the landscape changes gradually from green flat farmland to rolling stone desert. The road is narrow and we are slowly getting used to the daring overtaking Moroccan drivers who like to come in front of tight corners and hills are used. A friendly motorbike driver then takes us through the bustle of the city of Marrakech. We come in for a surprise out more. 15 years ago that we visited as backpackers this city the last time. Meanwhile, almost everything is new. Fantastic hotel complexes lining the wide boulevards of the New Town, across palm-fringed squares and roads. The wall to the medina has been recently renovated. In this city seems to be a small economic miracle to have taken place in recent years. We continue south and roosts us into a small, traditional Guest House complex, its walls made of mud and straw are created. The "rooms" are virtually small traditional Berber houses. The food can be served in tents. to sip not a bad feeling after five hours of dusty road, a sweet Moroccan mint tea in the garden of the property. The name of this is highly recommended Maison d'Hotes Jnane Leila : For all interested travelers. It is circa 6 km südlich von Marrakech an der Straße zum legendären Tal von Ourika. In den nächsten Tagen werden wir in die Märkte Marrakechs eintauchen und mit dem Landi den Hohen Atlas erkunden – unter anderem das besagte Tal von Ourika.

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The end of Europe

Gibraltar ist ein beschauliches britisches Städtchen am Ende Europas. Voll gestopft mit Offshore-Banken, Online-Gambling-Firmen und englischen Touristen in Trainingsanzügen, gruppiert sich der Ort um den berühmten Affenfelsen. Ein ganz hervorragender Platz, um den Vormittag mit The Times and spend a tea with milk. Marks & Spencer offers excellent potato chips with Salt & Vinegar and the pubs are packed clock from 11 to usher in the day with lukewarm beer. After several hours we have enough to enjoy this bizarre piece of Europe again and make us walk on the way to Spain. Still cheap bought a carton of cigarettes (also known as Non smoking can you use these things well as bribes in Africa ...), then the runway of the airport crossing ("When red pedestrian light is taking off or landing machines expected, please go quickly!"). Then it goes past the last British Device before the border, the "Office for complaints about English border restrictions" and already we are kindly waved through by British and English border guards ... without restrictions.

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A. .. cold in Granada

When we got yesterday evening in Granada from Landi, we were somewhat surprised to meet people in ski suits in the city. The Sierra Nevada is the largest English ski resort - only about 30 minutes from Granada is located. So we fled to us as fast as possible in a well heated tapas bar, but not before briefly made a trip to the powerful-looking about Granada Alhambra zu haben. Ein Zeugnis der jahrhundertelangen Herrschaft des Islam in diesem Teil Spaniens, bevor die katholische Reconquista wieder iberischen Schweineschinken und Rotwein populaerer werden liessen. In den naechsten Tagen werden wir dann den - kurzen - Sprung nach Afrika machen. Allerdings steht vorher noch ein Abstecher in das Surferparadies Tarifa auf dem Programm. Inzwischen sind wir ganz in der Naehe von Gibraltar gelandet. Die Temperaturen hier an der Kueste sind uebrigens wieder angenehme 20 Grad...

Das Bild zeigt die rettende Tapasbar samt freundlicher Besatzung con Jamon Iberico...

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Barcelona celebrates Christmas break

Was wir nicht wußten: In Spanien feiert man traditionell Weihnachten am 6. Januar (heilige drei Könige). Leider sind alle Läden am Samstag geschlossen - nur Starbucks und Dunkin Donuts halten in guter amerikanischer Tradition immer die Türen offen. Ansonsten scheint die Sonne bei knapp 20 Grad. Die Barcelonesen gehen entspannt am Meer spazieren, trinken Cava am Mittag und bevölkern die Bars. Wir schließen uns an. Unsere Freunde Christian und Caroline erweisen sich dabei wieder einnmal als geschickte Pfadfinder im Gewirr von Tapas Bars, Restaurants und Cafés.

Interessant ist es, einen Blick in die Schaufenster der unzähligen Immobilienmakler Barcelonas zu werfen. Inzwischen liegt der Quadratmeterpreis für Wohnraum in guter Lage bei rund 8000 €. Damit liegt das Preisniveau etwa viermal höher als in Berlin und beim dreifachen von Frankfurt. Selbst in Zürich kommt man noch deutlich günstiger zum Zug, obwohl die Einkommen in Spanien wesentlich geringer sind. Der stetige Strom von Ausländern, die zuziehen und der Zustrom von Kapital scheint nicht abzureißen. Und überall wird weiter gebaut - Baukräne soweit das Auge reicht. Doch in nicht allzulanger Zeit wird die Immobilienblase hier wohl platzen, die Preise werden sich dann halbieren und das allgemeine Jammern groß sein. Doch diese fantastische Stadt sollte auch das gut überleben...

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Heute 9 Uhr geht es los! Circa 150 kg Gepäck sind verstaut. Chris vom Safari-Centre hat uns netterweise noch eine Kiste mit Ersatzteilen aller Art inkl. Dieselpumpe, Ölfilter und Radlager.... eingepackt. Die Wüstenpisten können jetzt kommen. Unsere erste Etappe führt uns aber erstmal ganz zivilisiert in die Provence und das Wochenende werden wir in Barcelona verbringen. Wie das Bild zeigt, beginnt so manche Reise mit dem Rückwärtsgang. Dank an unseren Nachbarn Hans-Peter für den Schnappschuss...